FEB 14 — Each time I make a trip to KL, I am reminded of how lucky I am to have just that few handful of good pals (I am no saint, but I guess good enough to earn the friendship of those treasured few) there who are always at the ready to scurry me off away from the slick tourist traps (albeit nice) in the Bukit Bintang and Chinatown area.
Yes, after umpteen times to KL, I admit I am still a Bukit Bintang rat. I love scuttling about to sniff out that little rare shop, stall and eatery hidden just bedside the slick malls and frenzied shopping centres — like for a bowl of what I regard as still one of the best, most sincere and humblest bowl of Ipoh curry hor fun at the corner of Jalan Tong Shin in front of Corona Hotel.
Sincere, from the way they pack the air tight prawn dumplings and honest, from the way how each bowl is systematically made and comes out consistently appealing with a well brewed stock. When done, I make that 1km walk and get myself lost in the frenzied shopping motion in Sungei Wang.
Cheesy and touristy, I know, and I often put on repeat mode the routine of having those fatty white chicken on a plate of al-dente wantan noodles followed by a cup of mata kuching drink at Petaling Street. It’s like the Singapore equivalent of having fried Hokkien prawn noodles on opei leaf at Food Republic in Orchard Road before heading to Takashimaya for a buying spree. Except, before I get suckered into that routine, my buddies would swoop down, scoop me and scoot off to what they consider a saner and more soulful part of KL or Selangor.
More than once, I wound up in Petaling Jaya. More than once, I wound up in Mr Kong Fatt Chen’s Restauran Woh Fung. This is my fourth time there and I finally realised why only now do I have the desire to write about his stunning offerings — I was too busy devouring and palling all those while. So this time, difficult as it may be, in between the loud chatter, uninhibited laughter, and the total annihilation of the unctuous creations that Mr Kong brings out, I have to coherently photograph the food and pen some facts about this place.
The man started in the kitchen more than 30 years ago as a clueless 14-year-old in an era in Perak when “there was not much work to do”. One stint led to another and he decided eight years ago that KL was where the pot of gold at the rainbow’s end was located. So, with his fearless, been-there, done-that, burnt-this and fired-that before attitude, he set up shop in a cheerful little shop in PJ. Step in and a wall, plastered with handwritten menu on vanguard sheets offering close to 90 items, stares at you.
His numero uno item is right there at the top of the menu — Red Tilapia in Laksa sauce. “I shift about 50 plates a day, no bluffing.” And when you realise just how piquant, tangy, spicy and softly sweet the sauce (which is kinda like an enlightened assam pedas sauce) is, you’ll accept that the fresh fish they use is just a bonus. And the sprinkling of mint leaves, chillies, ochra and some stink beans (petai) are useful sidekicks. One vegetable dish we always have is his rendition of the famous Seremban-style Sei Tai Teen Wong (the Four Heavenly Kings) where four winged beans, brinjals, long beans and ladies finger are tossed in dry sambal belachan with ikan bilis. Both, on a bed of fluffy steamed and soft rice, is like stroll in makan paradise.
But if you pile it on with his other classic like his signature tofu, done pie shaped, deep fried and topped with minced meat, it becomes blissful. Greedy us, of course we must have the steamed Patin fish too. How can we not, when it constantly comes fresh and simply steamed with soy, ginger and spring onions with coriander.
It is easy to go wah, shiok, best, as each dish is devoured but it is difficult to comprehend when Mr Wong tells you that, in fact, he is light on the judicious use of oils, fats, salts and sugar to balance the flavours. Each dish is cooked ala minute and fast, as “both my chefs have been with me for a long time and they know that speed is of the essence.” And one more interesting fact and we have it on his authority to say this — he will not charge you for the first dish if it takes more than 30 minutes to arrive.
Restauran Woh Fung, 17 Section 20 , Jalan 13, Paramount Garden, Petaling Jaya, Tel: 03-7874-3411. Lunch and dinner daily.
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